My dearest readers of whom I may have five by now - I am sorry for the hiatus of sorts. I promised an ACV fix and, well, it didn't work out as planned YET - the bolt part was somehow stripped to where a 17mm will slide and a 5/8 doesn't even fit which is weirder. However, I do have some info about it to post soon. As for me...
Like the hood ornament? (What about my "hood latch"?)
It fits the car. Godly theme - because I am faithful which I won't spread on here and it's also a metaphor.
I am moving and unexpectedly too. I am staying in hotels until I move in somewhere but my life is going to be hectic for the next month BUT I will regularly start posting articles again. Up until I woke up this morning, it has been very hectic like I said. Not only did I have to find an apartment in three days but I have to wait a month in a hotel.
The good thing is that I have quite a few parts with which I will keep working on the car.
What do you guys actually think about the hood ornament? I think it's straight up gangster (or maybe I should say yakuza).
A little more about the ACV that is part of the power steering system. It is probably the part most prone to leaking. The jist of what you have to do, which - again - I will post an article about.
1. Disconnect the two hoses that connect to the air intake and throttle body. (I will have pictures - they connect to the ACV - pretty obvious stuff)
1b. Plug the two holes that are left or simply rig a vacuum hose to go from the intake nozzle to the throttle nozzle (the two places where the hoses connect to the engine parts other than the ACV).
2. Use a 17mm wrench to slowly remove the ACV after you have it disconnected from the hoses. Important: I would drain what's in the reservoir first because when you start taking off the ACV, power steering fluid is going to leak out. Make SURE you cover the alternator with a shirt or something, go slowly, and make sure you catch everything that will drip out. (Getting PS fluid on your alternator can kill it. If your pump is leaking, it will happen, but I noticed the ACV leaks in the perfect spot where it misses the alternator.)
3. There's two options here. From the information I can gather, the thread on the ACV should be M14x1.5 or M12x1.75 with the latter only being mentioned a couple times. I picked up both just incase. I found a perfect drain plug with a built in gasket that is also the perfect length for the M14x1.5. You see, whatever you plug the hole with cannot go deeper than maybe an inch or less because there is a part in there it will hit. You don't want to damage that. As for the M12x1.75, I had trouble finding anything until I got a pretty short bolt with that thread at a home improvement store although some of them don't have it. Go to a few if you need to. Also, if you can't find a short one, I have seen someone use a long bolt which they left poking out which still seemed to work.
The second option - and this is what I would do if I could get another ACV from the junkyard just so I don't break mine. Honestly, it may be better to go this route.
What you're going to have to do is break off the plastic piece and take the valve out of the ACV. That will leave you with a bolt-like piece that is actually meant to go in that spot. This piece has a hole going all the way through it so instead of plugging the place where the ACV actually goes, you will be plugging what is left of it. What you need to do is find a bolt that fits the end of the ACV. I believe it's a 1/4 inch bolt and the thread may be 20 but I'm not sure. Just pick up a few different ones - they're cheap. You are literally gonna screw the bolt into the hole. From what I understand, you will basically be tapping it. Make SURE that the bolt is short enough to where there is about half an inch or a little less clearance from the side that will go back in the pump. The reason, again, is because there is a part inside that will block you from fully screwing in the bolt if you don't do this. (Tip: Use a metal saw to cut the bolts. You can get one for probably ten bucks. Yes, ten fully grown male deer.) Some people finish it off with some JB Weld around the edges of the bolt on the outside so it DEFINITELY doesn't leak.
This is called an "ACV Delete." You're essentially removing a system that is pretty much just a hindrance.
Don't think about plugging the plastic part. It just won't handle the pressure.
Also, these are the problems you should have if you have the same problem. See, on my car, the vacuum hose that goes to the throttle body is still connected to the ACV. It slows down the leak but in the morning, when I start the car, it will suck in that little bit of PS fluid and it's going to come out of your exhaust. It burns up just like oil thankfully and I figure I can clean the throttle body later if need be but I'm not having performance issues if anyone is wondering. For a long time I thought the motor was burning oil until I realized what it actually is. The smoke is the same blueish color but the smell is slightly different.
There are no side effects to doing the delete. Don't worry about messing anything up. It's a better way to go than replacing it with a new one. They start leaking at around 70k miles.
I hope that helps somebody until I can fix my own problem and document it with pictures. At the time I didn't realize but I may have luck putting a layer of sandpaper on the bolt part of the ACV so the wrench can get more grip. It will close the gap (I don't understand how a 17mm on this one is literally a little too big like part of the original metal was stripped down... somehow) and it won't slip because it's abrasive.
Call to writers!
Are you a writer? Do you write about cars and want to get some stuff out? You can always make your own blog but I want to add writers in the future with their own projects and all so we can work together to provide a variety of information. I don't make any money from this but if I ever do, you will get some too if you are writing for this blog.
Going for Broke; a term that means you put everything you got into achieving a specific goal. Here at DFB we focus on older cars. The idea is to not only get you in the best car you can get for $1-3,000 but also to teach you to fix it and even modify it yourself. This is a resource for tutorials and ideas especially. We value a truly original car. Here you will find many different topics - please look around. Contact? Instagram: rokask1
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