Tutorial on Spark Plugs plus LS400 Update

This is a simple procedure but I figured I would post a write-up for anyone that may not know how to do this or be doing it wrong.

I also wanted to update my readers on my car, The Chariot. Recently I ran into some trouble but, again, was able to sort it out quickly. I was driving along just fine when all of a sudden, the car lost what seemed like 85% of its power (causing me to have to limp it home) and also didn't really want to respond to the gas pedal if I went past about half. It would respond but it would take a second for it to actually start accelerating faster so that was weird. See if you can guess what it was.

Everything here applies to all cars that have spark plugs. You need to buy a spark plug tool which is a hollow socket with a magnet inside of it to pull the spark plug out. I had lost the one I bought so I used one without a magnet and came up with a very simple way to fish the old spark plugs out, which can be a pain if they're deep like on this LS400. The trick is simple. I simply grabbed a vacuum hose that I had lying around and tested to see if it would slide onto an old spark plug. In fact, the hole was perfect - big enough but small enough to where the hose is able to hold the spark plug in once you slip the hose on the tip. It's time consuming but just go slow and have patience. Look down into the engine to see where the plug is sitting and do your best to aim the hose hole onto the plug. Press down whenever you feel like you're close. You will probably miss a bunch of times but you should feel your hose slip onto the plug when you get the angle right. Then you can just pull it out.

The first thing you have to do is remove the covers to get access to the spark plug wires. When you disconnect the spark plug wires from each spark plug, you will have access to the spark plug itself.

It is important how hard you tighten the spark plugs when you put them back in. More on that later.

These are the covers on the LS400. It's time consuming if it's your first time but it's not hard. You have to take the air intake and ducting off to get access to the spark plug covers. You also have to take the distributor covers off as well which are the triangular covers. Everything is held on by 10mm bolts and comes out in order from the ram air intake, then the round air intake itself, followed by the MAF sensor and elbow, and then the large ducting which goes to the throttle as well as to some other hoses. How many depends on if you deleted your ACV yet or not (there is a tutorial on this site).

Take your time with the ducting.

Be careful and go slowly when you take the main piece off. You should have the clips for the big connecting hose off. You have to take your time wiggling this large plastic piece off of the throttle and also the big hose. Take your time! Move it side to side and pull. Eventually you can pull upward to take it off the throttle opening. As for the big hose, turn it back and forth as you pull the two pieces apart. Carefully. You should have already disconnected any other hoses there.

Once you get the covers off, you're ready to change the spark plugs one by one. This way you won't get the wires mixed up which is important for the timing on the engine.

Start from the left and go right on the passenger side and right to left on the driver's side. Take the spark plug wires off one at a time. They're held in by little clips so take the wire you're working on out of the plastic clip(s). They just hold the wires in place. When you take the boot off, go slowly because you don't want to damage it if it's dry rotted at all. Depending on how long it's been, its pretty easy to take out each boot or plug of each wire.

Use your hands and not pliers or something. Hold on to the rubber boot at the base, start applying even pressure by starting to pull on it (don't just rip it out - apply strong but not too strong, even force) and attempt to start moving it side to side a little bit. My spark plugs hadn't been touched in 220,000 miles (incredible) and they were pretty easy to take off. They're somewhat stuck so you will feel it when they're free and they should pop out with a little extra pull.

You now have access to the spark plug. Go ahead and take it out. Remember, you're doing one at a time and you should line them up as you do so. The reason is so that if you find one with a serious problem, you know which cylinder it came from. One of the spark plugs I took out had fresh oil on it and even though a little is normal if they haven't been changed in a long time, it was good to know which cylinder it was in.

The type of socket I used to loosen and tighten my spark plugs. This one isn't magnetic.

Putting the new spark plug in is simple but like I mentioned above, there is a proper way to do it so please do it like this.

Go ahead and start tightening it knowing there's a certain point that you have to stop at that you will be able to feel so pay close attention. After you do a few, you will know the exact feeling. They tell you to "hand-tighten" it before you turn the socket a half-turn or 180 degrees. I don't like that term because it implies that once you can't turn it with your hand is when you do it but that's wrong. When the spark plug hits the bottom as you are tightening it, you will feel it. The force needed to turn the socket anymore will increase two or three times. It is at this point that you turn your socket 180 degrees or a half turn. At this point, it should be in good. But you have to stop because over tightening spark plugs can range from being kinda bad to really bad.

Onto the update with my car. Initially I thought that the catalytic converter was clogged simply because of how much power and response the car lost. After a back pressure test and some diagnostics, I was told that my car still has the original timing belt and water pump.

That wasn't the only original parts I found in there. This 220,000 mile supercar was still running on carbon-deposit-and-oil caked original Denso spark plugs.

At that point, neither I nor the mechanic knew what exactly the problem was but eventually a check engine light came on. That's what was messing with me initially - there wasn't even a code!

What happened was that the car regained enough power from the spark plug change to be drivable and the code for a bad oxygen sensor in bank 1 (sensor 1) only comes up if the car senses a bad O2 sensor for a certain continuos amount of time, which is what happened.

Today I got the sensor changed out at Muffler Man, a shop I have come to love. The people are honest and one of the main guys that run it was nice enough to show me their project car and talk to me about cool s*** for a while. Here's a sneak peak. You can expect a small article on this 600 horsepower 1988 Camaro and the shop. They put a lot of work into it and it shows.

Amongst all of this, something happened that I have never experienced, heard of, or even thought was possible. When I changed the old spark plugs out for Denso Iridium ones, the engine sound changed.

It makes sense now that the O2 sensor has been changed out, the ECU is able to set the proper fuel ratios and all of that good stuff, and the engine sounds smooth. However when I first changed the spark plugs and the engine was running weird, I literally thought I had a different problem because the engine note changed from a smooth V8 to a mean V8.

It's such a huge difference that I couldn't believe it wasn't being caused by some issue. The noise, that is. The car sounded like a truck before I fixed the O2 sensor. It just turns out the LS400 sounds mean as hell stock if it's well maintained.

I believe my O2 sensor got clogged by carbon deposits from Seafoaming the car. I'm not saying anything bad about the product because it works well on the right engine but even though it was probably because it wasn't able to burn up fully due to the old spark plugs, the fact is I believe carbon deposits got sent downstream and killed it. That's not to say it wasn't on its way out anyway.

I am saving money to change the timing belt and waterpump as soon as possible. Unfortunately I have to drive it because there isn't even busses where I moved and the wife and I need to work. I believe the timing belt will hold up for another few weeks if its done 200k+ already.

I know some people would say I'm stupid but when I get that done, I think I will have put three grand into this car when a running one costs a thousand.

But here's the thing. Most of the mechanic work I did myself so this vehicle will be completely up to date on anything that would need to be changed. From the top of my head, I already did...

I fixed a few leaks but you can probably see the residue I need to clean.

The power steering pump, ACV delete, radiator, alternator, vacuum hoses, coolant temp sensor, engine temp sender, spark plugs, complete fluid change using Mobil 1 synthetic, front brake pads, rear brake pads and rotors, and upholstery work on the inside. I've been dealing with mechanical things but I do have the hood hinge I need to fix the way my hood sits. I also have the radiator support which is the last casualty, if you will, of the minor accident the car was originally in.

So I've paid three grand and I would pay that much more. Of course, I would be mad as hell if it was right after this. But the car is very special to me. I bought it so I would get better working on cars and I did. At the same time, I always liked LS400s but after driving this car, I knew I was going to keep it. Initially I planned on getting it running and flipping it but it turned out to be the best car I've ever had.

In a way, I'm glad I was able to fix all of this stuff right away. But I have to tell you - it was pretty bad breaking down every couple of months! Luckily me and my wife are getting through it and the Chariot is surviving and getting stronger. Thanks for reading, everybody.

Turbobricks: The Volvo 740 - Speed on a Budget

My first car was a '97 Volvo 850 and I've been a fan of Volvos ever since. I've owned an S40 which had the turbo 4-cylinder aswell. Both were stock and slow compared to what you can do with the turbo motors relatively cheap. The car in question is the older Volvo 740. Even better would be the 240 or 242 but those are rare and will cost you more.

This should be your goal. 

The 740 was made from 1984 to 1992 so you have a wide range of choices. The motor you want is the 2.0-2.3l turbo that is an in line (or slant) 4 cylinder. That engine is what makes the car special. Volvo is known for making reliable cars (at least in the past - I honestly don't know how they are nowadays but I assume they're okay) that would last up to 4-500k miles. The 5-cylinder in the 850 is very reliable aswell but that car is front wheel drive. It, too, has a fast turbo version that I have written about in the past.

But getting back to the 740, that motor, which is called a 'redblock,' can take up to 30 psi of boost on stock components. Yes, you read that right. It can actually support that load. I believe the 2.0l version is better able to handle that boost.

You can buy the car in relatively good condition for a little over a thousand dollars right now but you will need to make sure that everything is up to date and maintained. Make sure the basics like timing belt are done but also look for a car that hasn't been abused too much if you're gonna go high in boost. Remember, it's an old car so you will have to do everything you can to get it in the best condition possible.

Again I say, anything above 16psi or so is going to be rough for the motor and this motor is the one to handle it but it has to be running right.

Once you get it to that point, though, you will have a mean drag machine AND it can cut corners. I never mentioned that the 200s and 740s are rear-wheel drive. You can have 250hp easily on stock components with a do-it-yourself boost controller. You can decide where you want to go from there. A reinforced block, pistons, etc would be best. Anything to make the motor tougher so you can pull more horsepower out of it. Those types of upgrades will also prevent you from blowing your engine.

The stock transmission can handle about 300hp before you have to upgrade it but that number is not bad at all from a 4-cylinder.

I used to be obsessed with this car but somewhere along the way, I got a Lexus. Which is gonna be parked for a couple weeks because I just found out that neither of the two previous owners have ever maintained it besides changing the oil, I guess. This car has about 220,000 miles and it has the original timing belt. Can you believe that? You should change it way before 150k! And I wouldn't be surprised if the spark plugs are originals. I have to basically do the works - water pump too, distributor, wires, etc. That IS a testament to the reliability of the Lexus LS400 however. Before I suddenly lost 90% horsepower, it was driving like new. I'll get it back on the road.

Motivational: Ford GT40 and SIN Cars

I often stop and check out people's cars if I see something really cool and the owner doesn't seem bothered. A few days ago, I saw a completely restored GT40. What the owner told me is what I want to tell you. The owner's name is Turbo (of course) and he builds custom boats in the Central Florida area if anyone needs a one-off boat. Anyway...

I was coming home and this thing was parked at the entrance by the dock. I was bringing my wife home from work and I usually don't stop because she's tired but I said sorry and put the car in park. She wasn't disappointed either.

This man Turbo - who has stories for days if you have time - is quite a character. Never been to school, like me. Restored a GT40, UNLIKE me.

My friend said he was stupid for daily driving a three million dollar car (this isn't a Ford GT if you haven't realized yet). I told him he was stupid for saying that. Although it should probably be in a museum, I'm glad it's on the road.

Next time I'll get a start-up and rev video, if I can.

After explaining what the name of the car was (Vehicular Viagra) and how it got it, he surprised me by opening the door and telling me to hop in. I dropped in because when I went to sit, my butt fell like two feet onto the seat that is 2 inches above the actual ground. You're sitting about 4 inches off the ground, making it very hard to even see over the steering wheel. Time stops as I try to orient myself. There's three pedals all the way on the right... I don't know HOW you drive this thing without your full attention. As for a speedometer or anything like that, forget it. There IS however a bunch of gauges for things like oil and fuel pressure.

This car is actually a 1969 so I guess that's where he got the number... Right...

What I'm trying to say is this. And Turbo said the same thing. Enjoy what you have but keep making it better. That is the secret to life. He started working on cars just like most of us. Messing around at his dad's house. Now he's living the dream, truly. It inspired me. I think there was about 300 Ford GT40s built so Lord knows how he got parts.

Check out that carburator...

All I know is that this is the rarest and most beautiful car I have seen to date. My wife remarked how much it looks like a muscle car. However, ever since finding a place to live a few weeks ago, I've also ran into a Skyline at the gas station and a set of a Formula One car with a SIN car. What is a SIN? It's a Bulgarian GT car that uses an LS motor from the Corvette.

I'm enjoying life much more nowadays because in the past I might appreciate the car but I would not have stopped to look closely. I made friends with Jon, the owner of this car and also the Team Owner of Racer's Edge, a Grand Touring team running this car. I wouldn't get these great experiences simply driving past. After all, when you're old, it's not gonna be your problems that you remember but the interesting things. Those things that are a passion to you. Make them a part of your life. Hell, build your life around it as I am trying right now.

The SIN car was amazing, quality top notch. I imagine it's a great bang for your buck if you're looking for a pure race car considering the fact that it runs an LS motor (I didn't ask if it was an LS1 but I assumed it was). Makes just as much power as its competitors.

The amount of carbon fiber inside was mind-blowing. Everywhere I looked, there it was. This car is a complete 180 from the Ford GT40. The GT40 is raw, powerful. It commands all of your attention. The SIN is elegant and powerful. It's modern and a lot less intimidating to drive. The clutch is where it's supposed to be and you have good visibility. Still wouldn't take it over the GT40, however, but being modern, I guarantee you it's faster - at least on a track.

In place of the passenger seat was a box with switches for oil, fuel, and anything you can imagine. The steering wheel was covered in buttons and the car uses paddle shifters. Overall, a beautiful and fast supercar. I think this company produces road legal cars aswell, with two seats.

The car regularly competes and seems to have just gotten their social media accounts running. Their Instagram page is @racers_edge_motorsports. Give them a follow if you like.

The last vehicle I want to mention right now is also up there in terms of legend. The Nissan Skyline. If I'm not mistaken, this was an R32. Again I was on my way home when I had to pull over for gas and ran into this sight (thankfully not literally with my car).

The R32 had just blown a head gasket. Surprisingly though, I think I was sadder for that than the owner was. It was evident that that wasn't his first or last time. He just looked bored waiting for a flatbed.

If you're wondering, yes it is right-hand drive and is tuned to the teeth. I'm not sure if that's real gold wrap but I wouldn't doubt it.

He said he liked my LS400. Thanks buddy... JDM for life?

I don't know these motors but I suppose the intake is on the right leading to the turbo on the left? Please correct me. The car was boosting 10 PSI at the time it blew the head gasket. I forgot what the man said but I could've sworn something about probably not topping off a fluid... Damn.

So what's the one thing all of these cars have in common? Of course they're all fast as hell but they're also unique. And all of the cars have had a load of effort put in. You are probably seeing more R32s now because they're old enough to import now. This ain't a budget car though, that's for sure. Maybe you can buy just the engine and play with it.

What is my point? Go out and meet people instead of being bored at home. Continue bettering yourself, your situation, and your car. Last but definitely not least, enjoy life because that is the common thread between these three owners.

Everybody starts at the bottom. Just like my LS400 is the car of my life right now, you may have one too and I encourage you to make it the best vehicle it can be. Listen - my car is probably only worth $2,000 but it's priceless to me and still puts a sh**-eating grin on my face whenever I hit the gas. The reason for this is because I literally brought it back to life and really made it my own.

If you have been thinking of getting a project car, I encourage you to do it and take the time to do all the work yourself. It will pay off big time.